After the transcendence of Di Fara’s, we knew our search would have some kind of lull. After that fateful Sunday our quest changed directions, conceptually and literally. We called up our friend Paul who grew up on Staten Island, the place nobody from Manhattan goes--maybe for the free ferry ride by the Statue of Liberty, then right back again to Manhattan.
Like any local New Yorker, Paul has opinions when it comes to a slice. When we asked for his advice about where to go on Staten, he had an immediate answer.
On a blistery, winter, half-asleep morning, we took the Lexington Avenue line all the way to the pier, bought a coffee, and jumped the big, empty ferry. As Paul regaled us with the horror story three years ago involving a drunk captain ramming the ferry into the dock and decapitating passengers, the Statue of Liberty sailed by the window, the coffee perked us up, the Island loomed closer.
Staten itself is both beautiful and oddly manufactured. We took a short walk to Paul’s neighborhood past big, old beautiful Victorian homes, next to cookie-cutter townhome developments. Paul’s father drove us to Denino’s with a short tour of the neighborhood along the way. We slipped in the back entrance and grabbed a table.
It’s a family joint. Post-game little leaguers are yakking about the game over tiny plastic glasses of Coke, and the waitress treats you like a friend. Paul eyed various clientele who he saw in tables on the outskirts, remembering them from high school.
Denino’s puts the cheese down first, which bakes itself into the crust; the sauce goes on splotches on top of that. It makes for a very different experience as you mouthful your way through the slice.
Denino’s is proper sit-down, and you can’t get a slice. While we were tempted by the catch-all “garbage pie” (and Paul made sure that we understood how good it was), a simple half-pepperoni was the choice. We began with some fried Calamari--in part homage to Jeffery Steingarten’s C.I. (Calamari Index) which he claims is an accurate measure of how progressive Americans are eating these days. If you can get them to eat a slimy cuttlefish (albeit fried with marinara sauce, like a mozzarella stick), you’re doing okay. In no time the pie was there and we started leaning in and back, snapping pictures (can picture-taking on a digital camera really be called “snapping”?). Meanwhile, Paul got impatient and began putting a slice in his mouth. We stashed the camera away and followed suit.
The crust is perfect. Oh. God. the. crust. This is the crust we’ve been looking for. Sharp, simple, thin. Economical, the opposite of fluffy and bread-like. Flat, magically crispy and yet not hard. Denino’s puts the cheese down first, which bakes itself into the crust; the sauce goes on splotches on top of that. It makes for a very different experience as you mouthful your way through the slice.
Some people say the crust is what matters. “Sauce is essentially sauce, and cheese is cheese,” they say. In one way, and especially in this moment, they’re right. This took pizza in a whole different direction. Denino's convinced us that if one part of the pizza is absolutely stellar, the whole pie is good. This is absolutely a destination pizza place. Skip the corner Manhattan joint and seek some adventure.
{ 12 comments… read them below or add one }
This place is the best,the pizza is the best in new york
First stop deninos walk across to ralphs ices,then go out the movies,port richmond is a great place to visit.
I like this pizza place but the parking is really bad,gennaros has a lot of parking,and the worlds best zeppolis,but the atmosphere in deninos is a lot better,but the waitresses think they own the place,dont ask for dessert on a friday or sat, IF LOOKS COULD KILL,,,overall I go 5 or 6 times a year…….
Great pizza place,not your typical pizza joint,this place is more like a family place with a rustic type nice feeling separated from the local pub,its done right,and the pizza is excellent too;;;
GREAT PIZZA,I JUST LOVE THE FRIED CALAMARI
THIS PLACE IS SO GOOD YET SO INEXPENSIVE,
EASY TO GET TO FROM ALL PARTS OF THE ISLAND ,OH YES RALPHS IS OPEN NOW TOO………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
NOW THATS A PIZZA
Does anyone know the name of that bread place on denino block ,there bread is great and hot,after you go to deninos and ralphs pick up a couple loafs.
Deninos is grrrrrrrrrrrrrrreeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaatttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt…….
BROTHERS PIZZA BLOWS THIS PIZZA AWAY,DENINOS USES CHEAP CHEESE AND CHEAP LABOR,GO IN THERE AND MENTION INS,AND THERE WILL BE NO ONE LEFT TO COOK.
GOOD PIZZA BUT IN THE GHETTO
Can someone tell me the best way to get to Denino's once I've arrived from Manhattan by ferry? Is there a bus or taxi service? Or is it easier to just drive?
Great family run restaurant and tavern. Great Pizza! One of the best anywhere in the US! Carlo Denino (great guy) passed away several years ago but hs wife Parma runs the place with other family members perfectly.
There is a bus from the SI ferry that will get U close to Denino’s. It used to be the #3 bus and not sure what it is today? Cab ride from ferry; 12-15 minutes.
Worth the trip if U R traveling from Tokyo, let alone Manhattan!
Larry the fat guy I deliver there cheese they use the top of the line for everything. The guys that work there all have been there at least 15-20 years. dont be a hater.