We all grew up on tuna fish sandwiches, whether we liked it or not. Sally pulls out her bag of carrots and a PB & J, Frankie his bologna with Kraft slices, and I pull out a soggy, fishy, tuna sandwich, and everyone stares. And holds their nose.
But it turns out my mom was on the right track: James Beard famously said that tuna is the "only food better canned than fresh." He was entirely wrong, but it stands that canned tuna is a wonderful delicacy.
But why aren't America's children raised on canned salmon? The other day, strolling down the grocery store aisle, I decided to investigate whether it was worth buying the more expensive, imported canned tuna. As my eyes reached the edge of the tuna section and kept roving, there stood before me: Canned Red Salmon. What was this oddity? It was no more expensive. I love fresh salmon. What would James Beard's palette say to this?
A quick scan in the indexes of my favorite cookbooks revealed Pierre Franey's recipe in The New York Times 60 Minute Gourmet, paired with chickpeas and freshened by, somewhat predictably, fresh dill. People are always pairing fresh salmon with dill, so this would be a nice way to compare canned taste to what I'm used to.
The recipe is about as easy as making a bowl of cereal: you just put all the ingredients into a bowl, the salmon last, and mix. Upon opening the can, it looked and smelled suspiciously like canned tuna, even by color. But the taste was different: more delicate in flavor, less fishy-tasting, a little richer. Also, virtually all canned salmon is wild-caught, making it safe and very nutritous.
An excellent recipe for a quick lunch out of the pantry, and certainly cheaper than buying it fresh. Not a replacement for fresh by any means, but a welcome alternative. Recipe after the jump.
Pierre Franey's Salmon and Chickpea Salad
Adapted from The New York Times 60 Minute Gourmet
1 can canned chickpeas
1/4 cup chopped onion
1 clove minced garlic
2 tablepoons chopped dill
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
1 can salmon, drained.
1/2 cup cubed tomatoes (optional)
Combine all ingredients except salmon and mix well. Add the salmon and tomatoes if using. Top with more fresh dill and serve with crusty baguette.
{ 15 comments… read them below or add one }
I'm a fan of canned tuna, both the regular stuff packed in water and imported Italian tuna packed in olive oil for certain dishes. I've never warmed to canned salmon, though. I think the deal breaker for me is that there are almost always bones in the salmon.
That said, your recipe sounds fabulous. I bet with some leftover cooked fresh salmon, it would be excellent.
I also have the same problem using canned salmon. it tastes fine but i can't get all the bones out. although it is cheaper than tuna, the bone aspect makes it too difficult to justify canned salmon as a viable alternative. Am i alone? Is there a brand of boneless canned salmon out there i don't know about?
During Lent growing up, my family ate a lot of canned salmon. As far as cheap fish goes, it's a good one. Although the bones are a little bothersome, they don't really take that long to remove. My mom always put together salmon patties with an egg and some cracker crumbs, then pan-fried. Simple and tasty for an sandwich/ burger meal.
My grandmother was a salmon croquette fan and it was always made from canned salmon. Since that side of my family kept kosher when my mom was growing up, usually the salmon was so they could have mac & cheese as a side dish.
I'm surprised by all this talk of bones–there weren't any in the can I used. I'll have to check which brand it was. I think there's a picture of it somewhere on my computer.
Is the dill in the main photo for aesthetic reasons or would you really put all those full sprigs in the sandwich? Eeek.
Canned salmon is a staple in Trinidad and Tobago – we stew it and curry it. Curried canned salmon is a great flavourful and fast meal.
Michele: Yup, I gobbled up all that dill right on my sandwich. I consider it a wonder herb. The mild flavor enhances many things and it's not overbearing: not like munching on rosemary or something.
Chenette: I'd love a recipe for curried salmon!
Regarding bones, I found the below information on http://www.alaskaseafood.org/. FYI, there are also some great recipes on there.
Pink and Chum (Keta) Salmon: These lighter-colored varieties are the most economical and are ideal for patties, soups, sandwiches and appetizer spreads.
Red (Sockeye) Salmon: This deep red variety is perfect in pastas, salads and for eating right out of the can (great when you're eating on the run or right at your desk!)
Both of these types of salmon are available in a "traditional pack" – with skin and tiny bones that are completely edible and add a rich delicious flavor as well as calcium, protein and omega-3s. For maximum health benefits, lightly mash them with a fork then blend them into the recipe. Enjoy the convenience of three can sizes: 14.75 ounces, 7.5 ounces and 3.75 ounces.
Skinless, Boneless Pink Salmon: This variety is now available in most markets, typically packed in a 6-ounce can and now available in a 7.1-ounce pouch.
I have canned sockeye salmon from a trip to Vancouver. I happen to appreciate the bones/skin.
A favorite recipe of mine:
Place salmon into a bowl. Add olive oil (less if you keep the juices from the can), capers, lemon zest, dill. Salt & pepper to taste. Let it sit in fridge for a bit. Enjoy with a saute of leafy veggies .
Hi, Blake.
We miss you already!
Anyway, I just this week bought some canned salmon at Costco and had some for lunch (just plain, mixed with salad greens). It was quite tasty, and there were no bones. But it was a little boring, so I was happy to see the recipe for salmon and chickpea salad. Will try it ASAP!
Hope all is well with you!
Erica
you must have canned salmon sandwiches with horseradish mayo on pumpernickel bread……..
mmmmmmmm, nirvana!!!!
Salmon is a great source of calcium, which makes the bones an important part to eat, not remove. Canning makes the bones soft and easy to eat. One does not even notice them once the salmon is stirred with mayo/onions/horseradish/dill or whatever.
I'm also surprised about the comments about the bones. I grew up in a family that would make "salmon patties" and as a small child I would almost beg for the bones as mom made them. Even now, my husband is grossed out by the bones, and I enjoy the texture of the salmon bones. What a great way to get extra calcium! And even if you don't like the bones, it takes about 2 seconds to remove them from a canned salmon. Much easier than trying to bone a fresh fish.
I’ve been following your blog for quite a while and enjoying your wealth of good recipes. When Foodista announced that they are going to publish the best food blogs in a full color book that will be published by Andrews McMeel Publishing Fall 2010, I naturally thought of you. This recipe would be a good submission! You can enter here: http://www.foodista.com/blogbook/submit
Cheers,
Melissa
melissa@foodista.com
Editor and Community Developer
Foodista.com — The Cooking Encyclopedia Everyone Can Edit