Quality ranges considerably; the worst come in a brine or packed in oil (often rancid); the best anchovies tend to be packed in salt, are worth seeking out, and can be delicious by themselves.
- Michael Ruhlman, The Elements of Cooking A to Z
On one of my last Brooklyn weekends before the big move to the Mid-West, I spent most of my time dashing in and out of every specialty grocery store in the Carroll Gardens area on a very important mission. I wasn’t searching for perfectly cured sausages or the best baked bread; That would have been easy. I wanted anchovies packed in salt. I had read about these superior versions for far too long without actually seeing them in person. Of all the neighborhoods in all the world, I had to be able find them here in this predominately Italian-American enclave. And I did find lots of anchovies: there were walls of the teeny, tiny fishes packed in oils of all sorts, but nothing with just salt. I even trekked out to Fairway and couldn’t find one. Sure I could have gone to Manhattan and probably found what I was looking for, but the disappointment still haunted me.
Since then I moved to Columbus, Ohio, and kind of gave up hope. Not that I haven’t been impressed with the food I’ve been able to find. The North Market has fresh, local veggies, butchers cutting up humanely raised meat, and a great cheese-monger. But I’m far from the sea. Great anchovies are probably not here.
Meanwhile, nearly every recipe that lists anchovies as an ingredient wants them packed in salt. And, through no fault of my own, I can’t find them. So I gave in. Perhaps they were just a little too idealistic with their enthusiasm. If the anchovies were so good, then why did no one have them? I needed some anchovies for a Dinner Tonight recipe I pulled from the River Cottage Meat Book. So I walked into the North Market and tried to find some, even if that meant the oil packed kind.
I started with the fish monger, but he didn’t have any tins. He recommended, of all people, the cheese-monger. And sure enough, anchovies were stacked on the counter. I picked one off, a rather average one packed in olive oil, and decided this was the best I could do. I casually asked if these were the only anchovies he had.
He reached into his fridge and slipped me a shrink-wrapped package of salt-packed anchovies like it was the most normal thing in the world. I couldn’t believe it. Notice the price, though. They weren't cheap.
So, anchovies packed in salt are the real deal. Straight from the Elements of Cooking I learned that they need to be soaked in milk for thirty minutes to wash away all that salt. Then they need to be rinsed in water.
I’m not sure if this is completely normal, but mine came whole (though headless).
Which meant I needed to remove the backbone. It was quite easy. I just cut the fish half and then removed the backbone in one large piece. Then they were, more or less, anchovies like I was used to.
Though, they were far from easy. I’d already spent roughly 30 minutes more than I would have had I just bought them packed in oil. They were also way more expensive. I had found these mysterious salt-packed anchovies, but was that necessarily a good thing? I mean, did they taste any different?
If the lamb chops were any indication, it was completely worth it. They had a much more full taste, coating the chops with a luscious rich sauce. These are stronger, more robust, and more impressive in nearly every way. They also keep very nicely in the salt for quite a long time. I guess all those cookbook authors were right. I wish they were just a little easier to track down.
{ 16 comments… read them below or add one }
The North Market is great for tracking things down. I wonder if Whole Foods would have them also…just a thought. Do you know where I can find San Marzano tomatoes in Columbus? thank, Stacey
Salt-packed anchovies are great, and relatively easy to find here in London. I've never felt the need to soak them in milk, to be honest. Just rinse off the salt, take out the backbone, and proceed with your recipe.
I also really like the white anchovies (boquerones) marinated in oil and vinegar as a tapas.
Lesley,
I do agree about the white anchovies. Those are tasty, but a completely different experience.
I'm wondering if you've every tried Jungle Jim's in Cincinnati? I know it's a hike for you but it is an exceptional experience… especially if you bring a cooler for all the lovely stuff you can purchase. They have so many specialty things there…simply amazing.
I'd suggest checking out Carfagna's (on 161 a little east of I-71). Good source for all things Italian.
Recca Salt packed anchovies are the best. I get them from DiBruno Brothers in Philadelphia, ordered online at their site.
I recently scored a can of Sciacca salt packed anchovies which contain about 100 of the little guys, and was wondering if anyone out ther knows whether it's best to remove them from the can into glass containers–thanks!
Alas, it’s still difficult to find salt packed anchovies here in Brooklyn. I’ve found them from the Roland brand at D’Vine Taste in Park Slope, but they come extremely tightly packed in a jar with a narrow top too small for my hands to reach in and get them out without completely shredding the fillet. When you want the nice looking long fillet for a pizza it just doesn’t work.
Sigh!
All of You,
You need to try Dioguardi’s Italian Foods in Canton, Ohio. This 100 year old establishment has fresh (made daily) home made Sausage (Mild & Hot) San Marzano tomatoes P.O.D.’s if you want the absolute best. Homemade Meatballs, Red Sauce and Marinara Sauce. All of these in house products have no additives and or perservatives. There is an incredible amount of imported cheeses, meats, noodles and other great cooking products. It’s worth the drive.
Funny how things work out. Fedex just delivered my can of anchovies in salt. I did a quick websearch for ways to use thedm and landed here. Will definately put the Lamb Chops on the Saturday dinner list. Purchased mine from Pennsylvania Macaroni in Pittsburgh. Not terribly expensive either.
http://www.pennmac.com/
Thanks for sharing.
Hi, I’ve never participated in this type of forum, but here goes. I too, was searching for info on salt-cured anchovies. I bought from chefshop.com. I live in Dayton, Ohio and buy SanMarzano tomatoes from Dorothy Lane Market. Jungle Jims may also carry. I am interested in any new recipes for salt-packed anchovies. Can anyone help?
I’ve used mine in a beef stew (secret ingredient), salad dressings, on Caesar Salad and in Scampi (added flavor boost to the shrimp). Good warm with roasted garlic and peppers, olive oil and crusty bread.
Great article!
Don’t just rinse them, though. Knock off the salt, and keep it! It’s loaded with flavor, and can be used to add life to a lot of things. And, anchovies make a fantastic addition in some unusual places. Add a few fillets to your minestrone, or to bring depth to a bolognese. Put a little anchovy in your home-made ketchup. Add some to a tomato cream. Paste some with habaneros, olives, capers, garlic and olive oil, spread on a pizza, and prepare for an incendiary treat.
You can often find them in market halls by the pound, cheaper than vacuum packed. Or, just get the tinned ones, knock off the salt, rinse them, dry them well and put under olive oil. Stored in the fridge, they’re always handy this way, become a little milder, and the oil gets infused with their wonderful flavours.
I can finally get salt-packed anchovies in my area of central Florida. Now, I’m never without them! I agree with a milk bath for at least 30 minutes. Then rinse and fillet. I store them covered in olive oil until I need them. Try melting them in a pan with olive oil and minced garlic then using this to spread on a baguette with melted Asiago or Provolone cheese!…Favorite use of these little treasures for me?..Pissaladière. The rustic (Pizza type) baked flat-bread with caramelized onions, black olives, and of course our hero, the salted
anchovy!
I have not been able to locate the salt-packed Anchovies anywhere. The one comment by Patrick on 12/3/2009 saying he found them at Pittsburg Macaroni (www.pennmac.com) – I tried but their website says they don’t carry them. Do you have any other suggestions? Thanks.
If you cannot get them locally, which is ideal, of course, use the web. They’re easy to find. Typing “salt packed anchovies” into a google search presented several sources. Pick your fave, and in a matter of a few days, you’ll have a supply on your porch.
Soaking the oil-packed anchovies in milk will also sweeten them, and make them a little MORE like the salt-packed, but not quite, and they won’t have the same texture.
I don’t generally milk-soak the salt packed ones, but instead, knock off (and save) the salt, give them a quick rinse (too long, and they’ll begin to dissolve), dry them, put them under olive oil and keep them in the fridge. They’re easy to use that way, and add wonderful complexity and depth to whatever you put them in.
As I often say, “Don’t Fear the Fish.”