Fennel-Cured Salmon Part 2: Out From the Deep

by Nick Kindelsperger on February 4, 2008

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It didn't look pretty.  After two days in the fridge, my fennel-cured salmon looked something like a disaster.  A lot of the liquid had somehow seeped out of my protective covering.  This worried me because that meant the brine didn't probably coat the fish during the cure.  It might not be done. How would I know if it worked? 

Ruhlman said to give it a touch.  "The salmon should be firm to the touch at the thickest part when fully cured."  If it wasn't ready, I'd just have to give it even more time beyond the two days.  I hoped for the best.

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It was definitely firm, and had none of the bounce that fatty salmon usually has.  It was good first sign.  All I had left to do was rinse off the seasonings, pat it dry, and think about what to do with this enormous hunk of fish. 

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I could definitely see the difference when I had rinsed all the flavorings off.  Instead of looking smooth and shinny, like raw salmon, it had a definite weathered look and had shrunk noticeably in size. 

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How did it taste?

At first I was hesitant about slicing in.  The moment I did so I'd be ruining something I had worked so hard to create.  That lasted all of about five seconds, before I grabbed a knife and shaved off a little slice.  I bite in and just closed my eyes.  It was delicious. I'm not kidding, or trying to toot my own horn, but the salmon had transformed into perfectly dense, flavor-packed dish, very much different from the fish I started with.  The transformation had worked.  Abby and I just stood there for 10 minutes or so shaving off thin pieces and eating in absolute bliss. 

And then it hit us.  Even though it shrunk in size, after tasting the fish it suddenly looked massive.  Each slice is rich, slightly salty, and packed full of flavoring.  After we had indulged ourselves on a few slices, we realized we didn't want any more.  We were full.  Unlike a fresh hunk of salmon, this was going to require a plan to make this was a pleasureable journey instead of a massive gorging. 

Ruhlman said the cured salmon would last for three weeks, so that was our time frame.  But we didn't waste anytime.  We spent the past weekend eating it for as many meals as we possibly could, and not having a bad time, either.   

Our first dish was a salmon tartare, which was essentially just finely diced salmon with lemon juice, olive oil, and salt and pepper. 

Then we got a little more involved.  Here are a couple of the dishes we came up with. 

Salmon and Red Onion Pizza

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I picked the idea for this recipe from from Wolfgang Punk, I think.  But I followed our cast-iron pizza recipe for the crust, and then played around with a few other ideas.  I knew I didn't want to cook the salmon, since it was already "cooked".  I needed a few key ingredients that I would cook with the crust, and then I would layer on the salmon once I was pulled out of the oven.  Red onion was an obvious choice, and I also found a hard goat cheese to add some creaminess.  A little slosh of olive oil and a pinch of sea salt rounded out the deal. 

I think three of us ate about 5 of these guys, and only had to stop because we were afraid of what the 6th would do to us.    

Bagels with Cured Salmon and Red Onion

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This one was always in mind while I was curing the salmon.  When Blake and I lived together, I remember this being his weekend brunch nearly every week.  He'd sit it a long piece of bread, and casually spread some cream cheese on, sprinkle on some red onion, and top it with salmon.  And that's what I've done here, except I just substituted a bagel.  The flavors were right, but perhaps baguette was the better vehicle, as the squishy bagel didn't provide enough contrast to the salmon. 

If you have any other ideas, please let me know. 

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{ 6 comments… read them below or add one }

ethermaiden February 4, 2008 at 9:49 pm

Excellent news!

Preserving meat is one of those things which one is wary of in the beginning, possibly even a bit snarky about. I know I used to scoff at "meat that didn't need refridgerating?!" when my partner's father would show me his jars of home-canned deer meat and confit.

Now? I'm totally pro-home preservation of meats along with everything else. Once you start- you're hooked.

SP February 7, 2008 at 9:26 pm

mmmmmmmmmmmmm, that looks sooo gooooood. Congrats on your first cure! I will be pulling my pork belly out of its salt tomorrow morning so that it can develop its "pelicule", then will smoke it on Saturday. So exciting!

N February 8, 2008 at 9:16 am

I ran across a Wolfgang Puck recipe for latkes with smoked salmon and creme fraiche that might work—I definitely thought of it while reading your first post about curing the salmon. Great post! I can't wait to follow your lead.

Charcuterista February 11, 2008 at 3:14 pm

The salmon looks amazing – what a beautiful color! I'm thinking salmon will be one of my next projects…way to be inspirational.

As for uses, I love smoked salmon in creamy pastas (with asparagus in white sauce, with fresh salmon and capers in a vodka rose sauce, etc). Do you think the cured salmon would work in the same way?

Nick Kindelsperger February 12, 2008 at 11:12 am

We actually had a lot of luck with a smoked salmon pasta recipe. It had called for fresh salmon, but we could only get some smoked salmon. This worked very, very well. Thanks for reminding me. This could work!

http://www.thepauperedchef.com/2006/05/fresh_pasta_wit.html

Ezzie Brody August 11, 2008 at 9:13 am

I have cooked, preserved, hunted and fished, but had never heard of this method for salmon until I stumbled on your website. So I had to give it a try!

My husband Ken, is the type who's favorite breakfast is bagels and lox with capers…until now. The salmon came out wonderful and we both love it. I used a farm raised Atlantic salmon (which I normally won't touch with any cooking utensil) instead of the Copper River sockeye which I bought at the same time. My logic was try the recipe and if it can make frAtlantic taste good THEN I would try it with the real salmon. Well, if frAtlantic tastes this good…oh I am already drooling!

I have also bought the Charcuterie book mentioned here and by several other sites. Sadly we do not eat pork, but even those recipes can be adapted to lamb I think.

Let me ask you one question…what other fish types would be good with this recipe? My husband says herring…I'm wondering about halibut (I spent 23 yrs in Alaska), or maybe a good firm trout. What are yours and your readers thoughts?

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