“American cheese (processed cheese)”
-Wylie Dufresne, describing the type of cheese he likes on his burger
I haven’t exactly made my peace with American cheese. I still don’t like it cubed, melted in grilled cheese, or laid across a deli sandwich. I’m not that into reliving my childhood and, really, actual cheese always tastes better. I thought that was the end of it. When I was young I enjoyed the non-offensive creamy taste of processed cheese, but when I grew up I put the individually wrapped slices behind me for more flavorful fare.
And that’s mostly a complete and accurate statement. But there is one enormous exception that I’ve found (though there may be more): the cheeseburger. There really is some magic combination. I took me years and a world renowned chef to beat this into my head: American cheese tastes really good on a burger. It was Wylie Dufresne chef of WD-50, one of the most prestigious restaurants in New York, who finally made me see the truth. For his absolute last meal on earth he wanted a burger with American cheese. Could he really be serious? Then I thought back. What cheese does the Shake Shack use? Corner Bistro? In-N-Out Burger? The truth was actually all around me. American Cheese was okay.
Sure, other cheese can work, but not nearly as many as I had originally thought. Sparing some intense Harold McGee quoting, not all cheese melts well, and in many cases the fat separates, pools on top, and results are pretty disappointing. Not American cheese. Because of it’s processed nature, it melts neatly every time.
Not all American cheese is equal, though. My mind went immediately to Kraft singles, but there are other options. After some intense Chowhound and Cook’s Illustrated searching, I kept hearing good things about Land O’Lakes. This kind really does taste different. While not exactly a complete revelation of cheese ecstasy, it does have a more pronounced "cheese" flavor and that makes for a better cheeseburger.
That’s what I was going for. If this was the burger Mr. Dufresne wanted for his absolute last meal, then that’s what I would have. Luckily for me, he calls himself a “traditionalist” when it comes to burgers. He doesn’t load the bun with fancy ingredients that distract from the flavor of the meat, though he does get rid of the bun. His only indulgence to the sanctity of meat and cheese is a fried egg. The runny yolk slowly drips all over the fatty meat, creating one of the most luscious, incredibly fattening meals I’ve ever had. I think I’ve made this thing three times in the past month. I love this recipe.
I do eat all of my Wylie Dufresne burgers alone. It’s the perfect indulgence when I’m home alone. It’s kind of disgusting in an insanely satisfying way. No one should have to watch me attack this thing with a fork and moan in delight.
The Wylie Dufresne Burger
- 1/4 pound hamburger (80% Chuck, 20% Sirloin)
- 1 egg
- 1 slice American cheese
- 1 tablespoon butter
- salt and pepper
Season the beef with lots of salt and pepper, probably two to three pinches of salt and about half as much pepper. Gently mix the meat together into a patty.
Heat up the griddle or pan to medium-high heat. Set the burger on top and grill. I can’t remember exactly how I cooked mine for, but I definitely had it around medium-rare. I bet it was 2 to 3 minutes a side. After a flipped the burger I added the American cheese.
Meanwhile, fry an egg sunny-side up in a tablespoon of butter.
Plate the burger and gently set the egg on top. Season with more salt and pepper. Eat with a fork!
{ 17 comments… read them below or add one }
I'm the same, I only eat processed cheese on a cheesburger when eating out, I don't even use it at home. Although to be honest if I had the choice between processed and real cheddar on my burger at the local burger joint, I'd take the cheddar. Removing the bun seems ok to me as long as you have a side of something non-protein to go with. Did you eat it with something else?
As a teen I worked in a small swiss cheese factory, we turned out 8 to 10 tons per day (16 to 20 ~1000 lb cheeses). Our rejects were sold to an American cheese factory. I haven't eaten the stuff since.
It doesn't seem very traditional if you get rid of the bun and put an egg on top, but thats just me.
I have a confession to make. My roommate and I keep a package of Horizon Organic American Cheese Slices in our fridge for snacking. We love aged cheddar and taleggio, but we also love to total nostalgia these slices bring as a quick snack. I like the Horizon slices- they have the same general taste as the other brands, but no funky chemical aftertaste.
Meredith: Love the confession! I suppose I still occasionally will roll the cheese up with a piece of ham as a quick snack.
I definitely agree about american cheese on a burger, and I'd definitely have to add cheese steaks to the list. Nothing is better than a whiz-wit at Pat's.
I absolutely agree. I never complain about American cheese when it's on a burger. However I do enjoy cheddar cheese on burgers too…it's a toss up! Great post.
Please note that the individually-wrapped slices are generally not American cheese (or even "American processed cheese"). The wrapped slices are mostly "American processed cheese food" (or "cheese product"). Check the labels. "American cheese," the real deal, can be pretty good. Years ago we used to be able to score some govt surplus cheese from someone who got too much, and it was great stuff.
As long as we're on the topic, most items we think of as "margarine" these days are spreads, not margarine.
I made the peace with American cheese long ago. I'm not sure if it's local to us here in Maryland or not, but if you can get your hands on some Cooper (brand) Sharp American Cheese give it a try… a little more flavor with a bit of a bite.
I made the peace with American cheese long ago. I'm not sure if it's local to us here in Maryland or not, but if you can get your hands on some Cooper (brand) Sharp American Cheese give it a try… a little more flavor with a bit of a bite.
Heston Blumenthal made his own processed cheese slices in the second season of his BBC series "In Search of Perfection," specifically to accompany his "perfect" burger… the recipe is available in the accompanying book "Further Adventures In Search of Perfection"
Cooper Cheese makes the BEST mac & cheese! But we can't get it here in California. (I'm born and raised in PA) Anybody know of a decent substitute? I haven't found anything even close to Cooper's Sharp American.
Help!
TO DONNA.YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO GET COOPER SHARP 5LB FROM"CUBA CHEESE CO IN CUBA NY ..CUBACHEESESHOP.COM..
I REMEMBER THE FIRST TIME I SAW SOME ONE PUT HEINZ KETCHUP ON AN EGGS IN 1979,I THOUTHT IT WAS GROSS,,, IVE BEEN PUTTING IT ON MY EGGS EVER SINCE ,, AND WITH THIS BURGER AND EGG "ITS A NATURAL"
TO DONNA FOR COOPER SHARP GO TO "CUBACHEESE.COM AND YOU CAN CALL IN AN ORDER .BUYING 5 LB FOR WIFE FOR CHRISTMASA,, COOPER SHARP . IS REALLY A GREAT CHEESE
nasty voice ugly people
American cheese is good for your teeth.