Goodbye Columbus

by Nick Kindelsperger on June 26, 2008

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For the fourth time in as many years, I'm going to spend the last weekend of June packing up boxes, carrying heavy couches down stairwells, and figuring out whether the odd Ikea piece of furniture is really worth the effort of moving.  I already cooked my last meal on the well worn stove (had to be the shrimp etouffee), and will now be living on bagels and sandwiches.  This time next week I'll be walking around Chicago, a city I can't wait to get into.  Oh...I really can't wait. 

But for now, it's time to look back to a year ago, to a little post I did about Columbus.  I was very nervous at the time about leaving Brooklyn and all the wonderful food in New York.  I knew I'd have fun, that I'd get to meet all kinds of people, and that Abby would have a great time at the Ohio State.  But would there be good pizza?  Unlike New York, there wasn't much info about Columbus online.  Reviews were either written by the restaurants themselves, or were overly dramatic.  So I tried to find out the city on my own. 

I don't, regrettably, have much to say about the restaurants.  So many of Columbus's restaurants are chains, that I saw no reason to spend money on them.  And unlike New York where the further you traveled into far flung neighborhoods the more surprises you'd find, the further you dig into Columbus the closer you get to the suburbs.  There isn't much out there. 

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Instead of eating out, I spent most of my time in the kitchen cooking with some of the best local ingredients I could find.  I was, and still am, astonished.  It's safe for me to say that I actually ate better in Columbus than I did in Brooklyn because I could afford better ingredients.  From humanely raised meat, organic vegetables, nearly raw milk, to air dried chicken, I could eat to my heart's content.  I owe this mainly to The North Market, the downtown market that acts as lunch spot for the business types, and as a local grocery store for us who live down there.  It is a little kitschy, but the goods are there.  Get to know the cheesemonger, he knows his stuff.  It's a great downtown market, and one that saved me this year.  All worries I had about being able to eat well were completely unfounded.   

The best restaurants, and the only ones I did return to, were ones that used the enormous bounty of the state's farms. 

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The Northstar Cafe is an organic eatery on High Street that serves a modified dinner menu of veggie burgers, flat bread pizzas, and ultra-healthy burrittos.  They get most of their ingredients from one local farm, and while its the not cheapest place to eat for lunch, it is almost certainly the best in the area.  It's the perfect combination of organic and sustainable while also being delicious and interesting.  They also have excellent drinks, including a phenomenal handmade ginger ale (doesn't sound like much, but oh, it is).

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Also in the same mold, though taken to an incredible extreme, is a little vegan restaurant called Dragonfly.  The hyper-fresh vegetables, including some grown on their roof, are expertly prepared and elegantly presented.  Abby and I spent my birthday there, and all I remember is eating mounds of fresh black truffles and drinking expertly made cocktails.  It can be expensive and the portions are small.  But it is astonishingly good and easily the best meal I had in the city.  That's something I never thought I'd ever say that about a vegan restaurant.

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The one thing that Columbus can say it beats New York in is ice cream, and more specifically Jenni's.  I had no love of ice cream before I moved here, but I don't think many weeks went by when Abby and I didn't walk down to High Street for a cup.  The flavor combinations are inspired and are often made using local ingredients.  There is always a line.  Though there aren't really any bad flavors, I am quite partial to the salted caramel and queen city cayenne.  Regular ice cream just doesn't do anything for me after having this stuff. 

All of these places are located in the Downtown and Short North area of Columbus, and for anyone thinking of a move I'd definitely recommend the area.  It's lined with beautiful old Victorian homes with loads of brick lined streets.  It's sad to think that our time was so short here, but it's off to the next city and the next meal.  Here's to the windy city. 

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{ 19 comments… read them below or add one }

Harry_ThaBombShelter June 26, 2008 at 1:56 pm

As a Columbus Native (and one that's also preparing to move to IL, though it's the Bloomington-Normal area and ISU for my wife and I), I'm glad you discovered the modest, yet satisfying bounty we've got here. I'm going to miss Jeni's incredibly, and although I didn't frequent the North Market (it's difficult if you live anywhere that isn't within walking distance), I'll miss it. I'm glad I stumbled across The Paupered Chef, and I'm excited to continue reading as you experience Chicago (we'll be there in a few years, the Wife has to finish her MFA first!). I'll be taking notes on great restaurants to try :-D

God Speed and Good luck!

Jess June 26, 2008 at 2:20 pm

Short time reader, first time commenting. I have been really enjoying your blog and had no clue you were in Columbus. I have some friends there and visit quite often. I crave Northstar's breakfast burritos at least once a week! Good luck with the move.

becky June 26, 2008 at 2:26 pm

I'm Jess's friend who she visits (comment above) and you are right — Jeni's is the best anywhere. We're actually moving to Philadelphia at the end of the summer, so I'm going to miss that too! Philly has some good restaurants though, so I'm looking forward to that.

Big Sis June 26, 2008 at 3:22 pm

What about missing your big sis?

It will be weird not having you down the street, but Chicago will be so cool.

Here's to a sarsaparilla at Surly Girl tonight, it's the best bar in Columbus!

Nick Kindelsperger June 26, 2008 at 3:26 pm

You're right! The Surly Girl is definitely the best hangout.

Zack June 26, 2008 at 5:22 pm

I grew up in Columbus. My favorite spot in the whole city is FlatIron (shaped like the building in NYC). It's a small bar and diner by the Convention Center. Make sure to get the Bacon Cheeseburger with sweet and hot fries – it's the best burger and fries I've had. Is very inexpensive (especailly versus NYC) and is defintely worth checking out before you leave.

http://www.flatironcolumbus.com/

alanative June 26, 2008 at 6:26 pm

Good luck with the move. I discovered the site by accident while searching for a recipe and have enjoyed it ever since. Never thought I would be a blogger, but I really now enjoy sharing posts with fellow food lovers. Hope the move doesn't interrupt the site too much.

bristlesage June 27, 2008 at 10:04 am

Well! How exciting that you're coming to Chicago! Let me be the first (in the comments) to welcome you.

Feel free to email me if you want restaurant suggestions, though of course Chicago's food scene is well-covered online and in print. But I'm happy to help, because I've never been as well-fed as I have here, and I love to talk food.

meghan June 27, 2008 at 11:53 am

I'll be the second to welcome you to Chicago. Although I'm sure you'll miss Columbus, you won't be dissatisfied with Chicago (I hope!). Hooray for food in the midwest.

meg June 30, 2008 at 11:43 am

aw, i just moved back to columbus… i've been reading the paupered chef for quite awhile now & was hoping you'd do even more about it. best of luck in shy-town. bluesfest there is great. hopefully you got to spend a little time at comfest this weekend. and yes, northstar & surly girl are great. i'm a german village girl, myself, so i wind up at club 185 a lot. great food there too. have a safe trip & please write an article about those wonderful chicago hotdogs!

Brian June 30, 2008 at 11:56 am

Awesome, more "foodieness" coming to Chicago! Drop me an email if your looking for recomondations and/or any questions regarding Chicago. Or if your a beer geek as well and would like to join my homebrew sampling committe your more than welcome..that is if you like free beer:). My wife and I have been here for 5 years (probably moving next year though..) and have had a great time here..especially with the food.

Cheers!

amanda July 3, 2008 at 11:31 pm

A friend and I thought we walked by you on Milwaukee about an hour ago. We figured we were making it up, but now that we see you've moved to Chicago, perhaps we were right.

You should check out the Chicago Food Corp. (on Kimball just North of the Blue Line Belmont stop) if you're looking for a good Korean grocery.

Nick Kindelsperger July 3, 2008 at 11:47 pm

yeah…that was me.

Andy July 4, 2008 at 4:55 pm

Welcome to Chicago! It's too bad you're just arriving as I'm about to move to Sydney. Chicago has a great food scene, you're going to love it! What neighborhood are you moving to?

Nick Kindelsperger July 4, 2008 at 5:05 pm

I'm in Bucktown by Western and Fullerton. So I have Damen on one side and Western on the other lined with wonderful looking taquerias. Went to a fantastic place today inside a grocery store. I'm already very happy.

Brian July 5, 2008 at 11:06 am

+1 on the recomondation for Chicago Foods (Korean grocer) if you want some cheap and straight forward Korean food you cant miss with the cafateria in the back right hand corner of the store.

In fact we're going there right now :)

Cheers!
Brian

Rebecca July 5, 2008 at 9:07 pm

Welcome Nick! Fellow Blue-Liner here (Logan Square). Chicago has so much to offer food-wise and I'm really looking forward to reading about your explorations of the city. Have you been to Devon yet?

Lucas July 7, 2008 at 4:28 pm

Other cool places to check out, homey: Coco Rouge, for superexpensive fine truffles (awesome milkshakes, too)
Khan BBQ, for cheap Persian eats
Spoon (on Western) for supposedly dope Thai food (never been)
And don't forget about the Green City Market; you'll fall in love with the meat selection

charlesanne February 20, 2009 at 1:51 pm

I'm actually moving to Columbus (from Houston, TX) in August to get my MFA in acting at OSU!
I'm absolutley terrified about finding a place to live, good food (I'm Celiac and have to find Gluten Free places) and good fun.
If you have any hints (a good real estate agent for rental places in the Short North is the first thing I'm worried about) I would greatly appreciate them!

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