The authentic Julep is a drink from the Heroic Age of American Tippling, and as such is not for novices. That's perhaps the chief reason it's fallen out of favor in these weak-livered times.
- David Wondrich
I'll get to the julep soon enough. But first I want to talk about the Kentucky Derby. Though I grew up on the Indiana side of the Ohio River, I don't care much about the Indy 500. I lived far closer to Louisville and so looked forward to the celebrations of Derby Week, and especially the fireworks of Thunder Over Louisville. Good stuff.
Of course, now that I'm older, any holiday or sporting event that pairs festivities with bourbon is a winner in my book. And I've made it a point to celebrate as best I can for the past few years. This time I wanted to make an authentic Kentucky dish to serve at a little gathering along with a proper julep. I've already made the Hot Brown, but that's not really about the Derby. It's too hot and heavy. For the event it's all about the dainty and frilly. This event is more about snack foods and banquets than elaborate sit down meals.
For research, I used the Louisville Courier Journal Cookbook from 1985. It's my invaluable guide to the city's culinary history. It's a remarkable book. That's where I found this recipe for Benedictine spread. It's a mighty cheese spread that was invented well over 100 years ago. It's great for tea sandwiches or as a dip for crackers. For someone used to cranking the heat to high and making a mess of my kitchen, creating this dish felt a little odd. You basically just toss everything in a bowl and mix. Green food coloring is involved.
But it makes those cheese balls sold in grocery stores look a little sad by comparison. It's pungent and creamy, and incredible between two slices of soft bread. It'll be perfect for my little party.
As for the drinks, for me it's all about the Bourbon. Of course, that could just mean some simple sipping of a fine brand. But on hot days by the Ohio River, some cooling refreshment is needed, and that is no doubt the reason the Mint Julep has remained so popular.
There is no right way to make one. It's a Southern drink meant to cool a person down. It doesn't even need to have Bourbon in it. The first ones were probably made with Brandy, and many recipes add a topping of rum. It can be served in any old glass you'd like. My dad has some swell old silver glasses his father gave to him when they lived in Louisville. They are great, but not necessary. I certainly don't have any.
The only requirement I've noticed is ice. You'll need lots of it. And it needs to be finely crushed. Last year I made some divine mint juleps using my parents old ice shaver. I think its original use was to make snow cones. I'm not blessed with that this year. My old boss LeNell would have crushed the ice by manicially smashing each cube with a muddler while holding the cube in her hand. Honest! It works for individual drinks, and is quite a lot of fun when you master it, but for multpile drinks you might want to try a different method. Rolling some cubes up in a towel and then violently beating it on a table is a great trick, or smashing it with a frying pan also works. But I prefer loading a food processor up with ice and letting it do all the work. You want it to look like fine snow.
As for the recipe, well...There are loads of recipes for mint juleps out there. I don't wish to add to the cacophony. Instead, here is a list of recipes from some of the best cocktail masters of the day. The first couple are for a more traditional Kentucky Mint Julep. The latter two get a bit loopy with the rule book, and that's just fine by me. My only advice is to muddle the mint and then remove it. I like a beautiful garnish, don't get me wrong. I just hate litte bits of mint floating around and getting in my teeth.
For those that are really interested in learning about the Mint Julep, check out this eGullet post. David Wondrich, noted cocktail historian, cuts through a lot of the myth about the drink. It's fascinating.
Standard Bourbon Mint Juleps
Unique Variations
Benedictine Spread
- 12 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
- 1 medium cucumber, peeled and grated
- 1 medium onion, grated
- 1 teaspoon salt
- Pinch cayenne
- 2 tablespoons mayonnaise
- Drop of green food coloring
Drain the cucumber in a colander for a few minutes. Then dry it on some paper towels. Repeat the same process with the onion.
Toss everything in a big bowl and mix until well combined. Cover with plastic and stick in the fridge until ready to serve.
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Perhaps mint juleps are in the same category as barbacoa…I can’t say I’ve had any that tasted good, but I concede that it’s possible I haven’t had the right one just yet. But I’m dubious. The last time I had one in NOLA
If you want something southern and considerably less flashy, how about making some pimento cheese sandwiches? You can cut the crusts off if you want to make them a little more posh.
I’m guessing the secret is to use good bourbon, but not great. Somewhat similar to a good Margarita. I see people asking for Patron in their Margaritas and just cringe.
Although I will admit having Makers Mark with my Diet Coke. But it was Vegas…it stays there or something.
Hello from Louisville! We are gearing up for the festivities right now. Just wanted to let you know that I checked your recipe against one of my vintage Louisville cookbooks. “Out of Kentucky Kitchens” by Marion Flexner (preface by Duncan Hines). Published 1949.
You’ll be glad to know that the Benedictine recipe you are using is exactly the same (down to the ratios). Thought you’d enjoy the blurb at the beginning of the recipe…….
“This delicious spread was the brain-child of Miss Jennie Benedict, a beloved Louisville cateress of a generation ago. It is still a favorite at local cocktail parties and weddings.” The recipe instructions also state….”Miss Jennie used mayonnaise made of lemon juice, real olive oil and egg yolks. Last of all, add the green coloring – just enough to give a faint green tinge, for too much will look unappetizing.”
Happy Derby!
I grew up in California so the Kentucky Derby seemed worlds away. I now watch and celebrate after I discovered the mint julep. shaved ice is a must!
We were talking about mint juleps at school (I’m a culinary school student) last week and, you know, it is one of those classic drinks I have never had.
What luck … now I have a recipe. Thanks.
And cheers!
Made this Benedictine Spread/Dip for a KD party we had in Birmingham this weekend . . . it was a HUGE hit!!
Anything with cream cheese and cucumber is a winner in my book. That spread looks so yummy! Is it firm enough to form into a cheese ball if you so choose?
Blacknimbus: The Julep is a proud Southern drink. The right one will change your mind.
Leann C: Yeah, I think my cookbook has roughly the same story. I almost made my own mayonnaise, but got lazy in the end. Hope you enjoyed the event!
gastroanthropologist: I couldn’t agree more. Ice really makes the drink.
CookingSchoolConfidential.com: I just loved reading that egullet thread. There is a lot to learn in that post.
Alex: I’m so glad it worked out for you!
Amanda: I believe so. I spread it on crackers and it worked wonderfully.
Blacknimbus, here in Kentucky we consider Maker’s to be barely a step over well bourbon. It’s perfectly acceptable to dilute it with anything your heart desires.
Here’s a hint. If the proof has been written on the label by a human hand, and the rest of the label was printed, you’re holding something special.
Mint Juleps are more than just a Kentucky Derby favorite these days. With mint and bourbon as the key ingredients, it’s easy to turn fresh mint leaves into an irresistible cocktail almost anytime of the year!