June 6, 2007 AT 9:27AM | BY

Library_5121

Bushwick, named by the Dutch Boswijk for “town in the woods,”  is no longer a town in the woods—it is a rapidly gentrifying section of Brooklyn southeast of tragically hip Williamsburg.  Once one of the most blighted areas in town after the blackout lootings of 1977--at that time, it was characterized by empty lots, drugs, and arson, and the majority of residents who could leave, left—it is now an uneasy mix of resident Latinos and artists moving further into Brooklyn on the “L” train.  It is also a bizarre mix of factories-become-lofts, rundown buildings, and brownstones in the sections nearer Bed-Stuy and Brownsville.

One relatively well-known restaurant is called ...

May 31, 2007 AT 10:14AM | BY

Library_6203

By some miracle, my girlfriend and I have recently moved into a beautiful, spacious, freshly painted apartment with a backyard, a washer/dryer, and a dishwasher: three luxuries that most New Yorkers offer up onto the pyre of compromise very early on.  It’s simply assumed: you won’t have those things.  You live in the city because the people that live here are interesting, and there are opportunities, and it’s constantly stimulating.  And to make it work you give up things, like the ability to own a car, access to basic household appliances, and room to breathe.  In New York, routine things become a hassle, like when buying an air conditioner you have to borrow a car or hope a cab drives by J & R when you come out the door.  It...

May 30, 2007 AT 10:55AM | BY
wonton01

My only real dumpling experience has been at the Rickshaw Dumpling Bar, a tasty, if tad expensive little shop in Flatiron.  There you could get fried or steamed dumplings with whatever filling you wanted for around $6.  A box full of those, a warm, sun-drenched day in Madison Square Park, and all is right with the world.  I know Chinatown has some great deals, some where 5 or more can be secured for $1.  But mine were tasty, well made, and I only had to walk two blocks from work to get them.

But I haven't had them in ages.  Since I don't work in the area anymore, I can't quickly stop over.  But when I was picking up a big batch of kimchi...

May 24, 2007 AT 10:02AM | BY
kimchi 9

Lest you all forget my infatuation with the pickled cabbage, it is powerful.  When I worked in Manhattan, the attraction to the stuff had me trudging over to the Korean buffet at least once a week.  But I no longer work in Manhattan, and while I'm very happy with my new job, I do miss my kimchi.

I’m not sure why it never occurred to me until now to secure my own stash.  Like a lot of ethnic foods, I always wanted to place the trust of the food into knowledgeable hands.  Maybe it still retains it's mysterious appeal that way.  So I looked into making my own, which ended up being a rather short search.  The problem, unfortunately, was that kimchi was hard to make, and not just because of the long list of ingredients....

May 23, 2007 AT 5:47PM | BY

Serious_eats

Tired of paying extra for that glass of OJ?  We tested some oranges and came out with an economical alternative.   

May 21, 2007 AT 10:08AM | BY

Library_6151

Everybody’s always talking about lobster--in a roll mixed with mayonnaise, sliced in two and charred on a grill, served with dipping butter next to a tender piece of filet mignon.  The fact is, this animal gets far too much attention.  No doubt about it, lobster is quite something--but how often can you afford to eat it?  For the same reason we rarely eat filet mignon--and then only when it’s on sale--we don’t buy much lobster.

Library_6103

There’s always the question of cost, not to mention guilt.  The destruction of...

May 16, 2007 AT 9:45AM | BY
broccoli 1

"That's it?" you might be saying.  But yes.  This is a recipe for broccoli.  Well, roasted broccoli.  I did salt that beef lurking around out of focus in the background for hours, submerge it in lukewarm water for another hour, and sear it at high heat.  But the broccoli was better.  Even the stems were great.  Long relegated to second class citizens to the beautiful florets up top, when stripped of their hard outer cover the stems soak up all the flavors, in this case lemon and garlic, and honestly taste better.    

For every recipe about how to slow cook a chicken for 6 hours there has to be something practical, easy, and ready to eat in less than an hour.  That's where roasted broccoli comes in, seemingly one of the most...

May 15, 2007 AT 9:51AM | BY

Library_6082

A couple months ago I was eating at Otto, which is the place to bring friends who are visiting: a bit touristy, but very affordable; good to great food that’s easy to share; and most importantly, they have olive oil gelato, which floors just about everyone who tries it.  One thing we always do is order lots of the $4 vegetable dishes, like tiny radishes with anchovy-mustard sauce, or salsify with blood oranges.

This particular time, we were convinced to order the “fregula and sweet corn” option.  Half our party was hailing from Indiana, a people largely unable to resist...

May 8, 2007 AT 11:30AM | BY
grillades 7

I have been meaning to get around to this earlier: I really like the food blog New Orleans Cuisine.   I have no real connection to New Orleans outside of a dead great aunt and gorgeous visit a month before that storm came when my girlfriend and I flirted with the idea of staying.  But that's really it.  I listen to Louis Armstrong occasionally.  I've heard of Juvenile.  But I do love the food, and this site has provided much of my connection. 

I first cooked the shrimp etouffee, which still stands as one of my favorite dishes I've made all year.  I couldn't wait to dive back into the site.  So with a whole day of nothing to do but essentially waste, it was time.  Though I never...

May 4, 2007 AT 9:49AM | BY

CharcuteriePorksons

I’ve bought two cookbooks in the last week that teach you how to do funny things with pigs.  The first, which I haven’t had nearly enough time to explore, is Michael Ruhlman’s Charcuterie, co-written with Brian Polcyn, a book about the wonders of salting, smoking, and curing meat, a tradition of which pork is the oinking mascot.  Much has been written of this book’s...

May 1, 2007 AT 10:55AM | BY
coleslaw7

It's the food I never really think about, yet can't help but order.  While everyone else is thinking about fries or onion rings, whenever I hit a diner for some reason the one thing I want is coleslaw.  Maybe it just has the appearance of being a vegetable dish in a fried food haven, but it seems a cool retreat for all the hot food. 

The problem with coleslaw is that it can often feel like the least healthy thing in the world.  Sure most diner food suffers from an excess of grease, but slaw can literally be taking a bath in mayonnaise sometimes.  Like playing Russian roulette, I occasionally order it just to see what I'll be brought.  It will either be tangy, crisp, and refreshing--or absolute mush.

It never really occurred to me to make my own.  I...

April 25, 2007 AT 10:02AM | BY

Saffroncod_17
I’ve only recently reached a point where I’m ever so slightly bored with cooking. Don’t worry--it’s only a very subtle, mild boredom, easily fixed. But it’s there, and it’s a stage I’m sure many cooks experience periodically. What compels me to make the same old dish again? And even if I use new ingredients, isn’t it still the same technique? I’m a qualified saute-er, I can braise successfully, I know my basic vegetables. I’ve only been cooking seriously for a year and a half, and I feel like I’m already getting to be masterful at the basics.

Many would say that this calls for a reaffirmation of cooking’s pleasures. A time to remember to savor small things, to...

April 20, 2007 AT 10:31AM | BY
slow slow chicken 2

I tend to get caught up on certain cook book authors, and for the past month it has been all about Heston Blumenthal.  Head chef at the Fat Duck in the U.K., his cookbook In Search of Perfection has been fostering idea after crazy idea.  In a Serious Eats article, we wrote about cooking a pizza on the bottom of a cast iron skillet, to great success.  The best part is that his mad-cap search for perfection is, except for a few mentions of blowtorches,...

April 19, 2007 AT 2:26PM | BY

Help us find ways to use one of our least favorite vegetables in the fridge

April 16, 2007 AT 1:54PM | BY

Library_5995

I was cleaning out my fridge, throwing away plastic bags full of blackened herbs and limp celery and muttering about how I felt wasteful, of course, but also uncreative.  Why does the ability to look into the fridge and dream up recipes with what’s there elude me?  I'm a failure and a hack.  Why even cook anymore?  I should just order takeout and go to sleep.

But in the midst of this crisis, a beacon: I found my duck confit.  There, in the big white dish, behind the box of baking soda, old loaf of bread, and bag of stale tortillas: glorious, fat-poached duck legs sealed under a firm layer of fat, saran wrap, and aluminum foil. 

I’d lovingly, painstakingly made them almost three months...

April 12, 2007 AT 11:31AM | BY
steamed salmon 1

Every once in a while I get really excited about something I've never made before, and before I really have a firm understanding about what I'm getting myself into,  I'm in the middle of making it.  "Hey, I've never made a whole ham. Let's do it tonight even though we have no guests."  This is the thinking that lead me to pull out an apparatus that has never, ever been used in my kitchen before: the bamboo steamer.  It's been sitting up in my cabinet for well over half a year, and I had never used the thing.  It was never recommended for a recipe, and it never struck me as being a particularly interesting method to cook my meals.  Steaming might be one of the healthiest methods to cook,...

April 5, 2007 AT 9:47AM | BY

Library_5539

Sometimes all you can hope for at the end of a long day is a little bit of harmony.  Whether through yoga, walking your dog, or blasting Bona Drag, you find it and somehow the day washes away.  Often I find this harmony by cooking (sometimes with the Morrissey at the same time)--a chance to relax, create, and then have something delicious to show for it.  I have a recipe that, while deceptively simple, works so well that it manages to restore faith in the world as a generous place full of undiscovered pleasures.  It's a matter of limes, chives, and a protein of your choice.

The first time I had this meal was...

April 4, 2007 AT 9:45AM | BY

Serious_eats

Think the world of wine is just sort of confusing?  Watch us destroy what little faith you still had, and gain a few tips for your next quick stop at the wine store.

April 1, 2007 AT 10:53PM | BY
cornbread 6

Is there anything my cast iron skillet can't do?  Whether it's steaks, peppers, or even pizza, the big hunk of metal is good for most of my high heat needs.  But for bread?  I'd never really done that before.   Neither, for that matter, had I ever really wanted to make cornbread before. 

I have no real love of this southern staple.  I don't really have any fond memories of it as a child.  I'm certainly not repulsed by it; It's just not something I'm begging to make all the time.

But there it was in Alton Brown's...