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October 28, 2011 02:27 PM

Pardon the shameless shill for a moment, but we're both pretty excited about this. As most of you probably know, Blake and I have been writing the Dinner Tonight column over at Serious Eats for well over four years. That's a lot of weeknight dinners. But our history with the site actually goes back to the very beginning.  (Here is one very old article that we both wrote if you need some proof.) This is all just a way of saying that we're both excited to see that Serious Eats will release its first official book next week called, aptly enough, Serious Eats: A Comprehensive Guide to Making and Eating Delicious Food Wherever You Are.

It features a collection of recipes, food profiles, and restaurant recommendations from around the country. In fact, I was lucky enough to ride around with the crew while they were narrowing down the Chicago picks. (Here's some photographic proof of that one, too.)

It will undoubtedly be available at your local bookstore soon, but if you pre-order it on Amazon before October 31st, you can also get a free tote bag and an autographed bookplate. Click here for all the details. 

October 25, 2011 10:15 AM

 

Ed. note: This is the third post in a "Repertoire" series on the interplay of food and style, with our friends The Midwestyle. We're helping their readers learn a few recipes, and they're teaching us a few things about doing it in style.

To say you’re an accomplished person is putting it lightly. That time you summited Kilimanjaro during a snow storm. The month you took a vow of silence. The day all the stoplights turned green.

You’ve been places, you’ve seen things, and you’ve got most situations in the bag. But the thought of hosting a dinner party? Crippling. Like trying to throw a punch under water. There are Nobel Prize winners who would buckle at the thought of preparing a meal for friends and having to sit there and face them while they eat it.

Having hosted more than few gatherings, we've learned a few things.  Call them rules, or guidelines.  We think they might be a helpful starting point.  

And if nothing else, learn to cook porchetta. You won't regret it.

Ed. note: This is the third post in a "Repertoire" series on the interplay of food and style, with our friends The Midwestyle. We're helping their readers learn a few recipes, and they're teaching us a few things about doing it in style.

October 19, 2011 11:35 AM

 

I, Nick Kindelsperger, wholeheartedly endorse the practice of freezing chicken stock in ice cube trays. Doing so allows one to crack them into zip-lock bags and stash them in the freezer for safe keeping. It is convenient, fairly easy to do, and downright practical (in a slightly embarrassing way). Of course, the problem with dishing out little kitchen tips and tricks like this one is that there are enough of them to make even the most organized person confused. I'm as guilty as anyone. So, I decided to wait on this one just to make sure that I actually followed through, used it all, and then did it again. It passed the test.

I've long been freezing stock. I learned early on that freezing the whole batch in one bag was the wrong way to go, because it is hard to dethaw a huge hunk of ice. So, I started freezing stock in four-cup batches, thinking that would be a normal amount to use for a recipe. That is almost never the case. Nine times out of ten, recipes call for ½ cup or less, meaning I had to partially dethaw the bags, pour off the amount I need, and then refreeze them. The process was annoying and, at least whenever I tried to do it, messy.

October 17, 2011 05:09 PM

 

The older I get, the more I appreciate the un-simple things. Sure, I admire the shining brilliance of singularly perfect foods — like the best summer tomatoes or a properly aged steak — but I'm far more interested in dishes that combine dozens of components into a complex and bewildering whole. I speak of Mexican moles, feisty Thai salads, balanced Indian curries, and, of course, a certain Creole dish I've been in love with for a while now: gumbo.

Gumbo is a passion of mine, even if I only seem to get around to it once a year or so. Part of the problem is that I live too far away from the source for it to worth ordering at restaurants (as I once learned the hard way). But the main issue is that gumbo is an all day cooking process that absolutely can't be rushed. It is not easy or, if we could return quickly to the main thesis here, simple. Fortunately, there is much to love. 

October 13, 2011 10:18 AM

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I’ve worked enough days in my life, from my desk at home to mind-numbing office temp gigs, to have developed some theories on lunch. To me, the working lunch is a series of balances: it should be fast, yet not fast-food; it should be a break from work, but not so indulgent you can’t get moving again; it should be fulfilling, but not a cause of sluggishness. Lunch should work for you, but so often it’s the other way around.

Here's the idea: Work ahead, do a little bit of planning, and go vegetarian. And above all keep in mind: Healthy doesn’t have to mean it tastes like cardboard.

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October 6, 2011 08:46 PM

 

I'm not sure if there is a better drink to write about for the launch of an improved website design than my favorite cocktail of the moment — a drink so good it's literally called an "Improved Cocktail." (If only modern drinks had enough courage to pronounce their worth.) Think of it as a relaunched product's "new and improved" guarantee, except that this one was made back in 1876 and is alcoholic. Sounds great, huh?

But wait! What makes it improved? 

The standard mix of bitters, liquor, and sugar is a perfectly fine combination as it is. In Imbibe, David Wondrich refers to that mixture as The Original Cocktail. But people like to tinker, and somewhere along the line bartenders started adding little drops of this and that in order to alter the flavor. A few drops of curaçao made it a Plain Cocktail, and the addition of further fruit garnishes made for a Fancy Cocktail.

October 5, 2011 08:47 AM

 

 

We’re happy to announce a new collaboration between The Paupered Chef and some fellow friends and bloggers of ours in Chicago: The Midwestyle. It’s a great blog, and thorough. Ostensibly about dressing well on a budget, it’s really about caring: how you look, how you think, how you act like a young man in this here century of ours. We feel an affinity with their go-get-em energy, the same early-20s stuff that started this blog here that you’re reading. A recent post on how to compliment women is the kind of first-rate stuff that we’ve come to expect from these young pups.

Over a weekly beer at a local corner watering hole (the kind of bar that makes you fall in love with Chicago), we came up with the idea that another thing a man needs to know is how to cook a few dishes. See, The Midwestyle has taught us a few things about how to dress better. So it’s only fair to return the favor.

 

September 5, 2011 09:00 PM

It's probably become clear to most readers that this is not a food blog where you read about desserts, and for that matter, about baking at all. There's a good reason. We're no good at it. But yesterday, with a few perfect local peaches and a bowl of late-season blueberries, all I really wanted was to make them into a dessert. So it was time to learn something new. And jeez, was it easy.

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It's probably become clear to most readers that this is not a food blog where you read about desserts, and for that matter, about baking at all. There's a good reason. We're no good at it.

August 22, 2011 10:01 PM

The saga began simply: about three weeks ago I needed andouille for a Dinner Tonight. All I could find at the grocery store was a product that claimed to be the right stuff, but it had all the character of cheap bologna and about as much spice as, well, cheap bologna. I was angry.

August 16, 2011 04:34 PM

I discovered the first inklings of my obsessive nature while making coffee in college. So many things can go wrong. So many ways to go right off the cliff. What should be routine and pleasurable becomes stressful, maddening, disappointing. The beans, the water, the tools, the process, and the thin line between greatness and mediocrity. None are exempt from mistakes.  And of course, no one has ingested any caffeine yet. And we know what kind of mood thatputs people in.

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August 2, 2011 04:30 PM

Most people return from the beach with tans; I returned with tomatoes. It was a half-bushel, to be exact, and they were stashed in the back of a car as it wound its way from North Carolina, through the Great Smoky Mountains, and, some 16 hours later, finally to Chicago. Why such extravagant measures for tomatoes?

Most people return from the beach with tans; I returned with tomatoes. It was a half-bushel, to be exact, and they were stashed in the back of a car as it wound its way from North Carolina, through the Great Smoky Mountains, and, some 16 hours later, finally to Chicago. Why such extravagant measures for tomatoes?

July 22, 2011 02:27 PM

There's a lot of misconception when it comes to "barbecue." The problem is the word itself, basically impossible to pin down, because it means many different things to many different people. It's used interchangeably with grilling; it refers to the grill itself, or to the meat being grilled; it has a sauce named after it; and sometimes it's just the word for the party itself held outdoors in somebody's backyard. American purists see things a little differently

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July 12, 2011 02:45 PM

I have a thing for hotel bars. I'm just not sure there is a better place to have a cocktail. Served cold and strong, cocktails comfort the weary traveler and immediately transport one to a different, happier place. My hunch is that best hotel bars seem to be the manifestation of that first sip. It helps if the hotel, like the Seelbach, has its own 100 year old cocktail.

July 8, 2011 08:06 PM

The Italian bean salad has been with me a long time; I've made some variation of beans, herbs, and olive oil dozens of times over the past few years and I never get tired of it. It's about as easy as mixing some ingredients together and letting the flavors develop. What matters is using great ingredients and letting them shine. Which is what I found at Chicago's newly-launched Dose Market, which debuted last month and meets again this Sunday.

June 24, 2011 02:59 PM

 

Mexican food is made for parties. The construction of tortillas, fillings, salsas, and toppings; the spicy, rich flavors; and above all, the fact that it tastes so darn good. This was our guiding principle on a recent Saturday when, with the help of a handful of talented friends, we threw a Baja Fish Taco party under warm string lights in a Chicago backyard.

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June 13, 2011 09:11 PM

I grew up with spaghetti in my chili. Red kidney beans bobbed in the red liquid, and cheddar cheese and oyster crackers were mandatory toppings. Less than an hour-and-a-half from Cincinnati, my hometown fell under inevitable regional influence, and it somehow made sense to me growing up. But can Cincinatti chili stand up to authentic Texas-style recipe? I set out to find out.

Cockaigne: an imaginary land of great luxury and ease.
—Merriam-Webster Dictionary

June 8, 2011 07:42 PM

File this one under projects that seem a lot harder than they actually are. I made a batch of ginger beer recently which was fizzy, super ginger-y and dry, and fantastic over ice.  Ginger beer is essentially ginger ale but with a much sharper, more upfront ginger taste, and it's far less sweet.  It isn't alcoholic, but because of its more assertive flavor it holds up beautifully in cocktails.

Ginger Beer

File this one under projects that seem a lot harder than they actually are.

May 24, 2011 10:49 PM

 

"I hate rhubarb." That was the first sentence uttered by my local butcher after I described this sauce I wanted to make to pair with some pork chops. To be fair, rhubarb is a much-maligned spring vegetable. I was just convinced that I had to love it, and that I’d instantly find all kind of amazing uses for it.

"I hate rhubarb." That was the first sentence uttered by my local butcher after I described this sauce I wanted to make to pair with some pork chops. To be fair, rhubarb is a much-maligned spring vegetable. I was just convinced that I had to love it, and that I’d instantly find all kind of amazing uses for it.

May 16, 2011 09:49 PM

Soft shell crab season is here, generally considered to begin at some point in May.  So we here at The Paupered Chef decided it was time to take advantage.  Generally, the soft shell crab  is dusted with flour and fried up in a skillet, and I'm not sure there is a better way to prepare this crustacean than this recipe by David Lentz from Food & Wine magazine: stuffed into a crusty baguette with a lightly dressed cole slaw, thick-cut bacon, and a drizzle of grainy mustard mixed with creme fraiche. Who cares if the weather sucks?  Summer is officially here.

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May 11, 2011 06:35 AM

I love what smoke does to foods—preserving, often cooking them, and adding layers of flavor. Next to cooking over wood fire, there's nothing more basic and caveman.  There's just one major problem with this particular hobby (true of many caveman-esque cooking experiments): it's impossible to pull off without space and a backyard. This isn't always a luxury we're afforded living in a city.

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April 19, 2011 06:08 PM

One sip of real ramen is enough. That’s all I needed to permanently erase all those memories of those pathetic packaged noodles, which I greedily warmed up in the microwave during college. One sip. Done. It was also enough to make me question whether there was a better soup on the planet. Fragrant, rich, and soothing, it has no parallel in the Midwest cuisine I grew up on, and while other marvelous brothy soups my attract my attention from time to time (phở and pozole, mostly), ramen is the one I simply can’t live without.

April 4, 2011 02:45 PM

Big bowls of ramen seem especially perfect at warding off the brutal winter. Unfortunately, locating a halfway edible version, even in Chicago, can feel like equivalent of a finding a needle in a hay stack. I knew I'd have to make my own. 

March 28, 2011 09:07 AM

Until recently, my first thought upon hearing the word "punch" was a frat party, something electric red, and indiscriminate drinking--a concoction spiked with a slew of spirits that might be laying around and then covered in Koolaid. That seems to be the reputation punch has gotten—but if cocktail writer Dave Wondrich has anything to say about it, we are all missing the point. Punch is not the currency of undistinguishing party animals or boozy housewives at weekday luncheons—it is a fine art woven into the fabric of American Drinking and integral to cocktail history.

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March 23, 2011 08:43 PM

I’m not quite sure a burger can possibly taste any better than this clone of an In-and-Out Double-Double, Animal Style. Calling this thing balanced seems slightly ridiculous considering the caloric overkill, but for some reason the desperate elements (vegetable, meat, cheese, bun, condiments) combine to create something truly unique